By-owner guide · Updated August 2026 · Educational only
Selling your boat yourself skips the broker's commission — typically 10%, which is $5,000 on a $50,000 boat and $30,000 on a $300,000 yacht. It also means you're doing the broker's job yourself: pricing it right, photographing it well, writing a listing that answers the questions before they're asked, screening who you let aboard, running a safe sea trial, and closing the paperwork without a middleman. None of that is complicated — it just has more steps than handing someone a check. Here's the by-owner playbook, in order.
1. Price it with real comps, not a guess
Start from what comparable boats are actually asking today, not what you paid for yours or what you'd like to get. Our free boat price research tool pulls live by-owner low/median/high asking prices by make, so you're pricing against real current listings instead of a broker's markup. As a reference point, the median asking price across the by-owner boats currently listed on YachtBazar is $42,500 — but that number swings hard by make, length, and condition, so treat any single figure as a starting point, not your number.
From the comp, adjust for what a search filter can't see: engine hours, a repowered motor, gelcoat or hull repairs, electronics, and how recently the bottom was painted. A boat priced 5–10% below its closest comps typically moves faster; one priced above comps mostly collects lowball offers and wasted showings.
2. Photograph it like you're trying to sell it
Shoot in daylight, not under a marina canopy at dusk. Cover the exterior from all four sides, the helm and instrument panel, the cabin and galley, the engine bay with the hatch open, the bilge, and anything with visible wear — a scratch a buyer will notice in person is one you want them to have already seen online. The median listing on YachtBazar today runs 8 photos, and 72% show six or more; a listing with two or three photos is behind the market before a buyer even reads the description.
Skip the filters and staged angles. Buyers researching a used boat are looking for a clean, honest set of photos they can zoom into, not a brochure shot.
3. Write a listing that answers the questions before they're asked
Lead with year, make, model, length, engine make/model and hours, and fuel type — the fields a buyer filters on. Then describe condition plainly: recent maintenance, known issues, what's included (trailer, electronics, covers, life jackets) and what isn't. The median by-owner description on the site runs 103 words; the shortest quarter are 49 words or fewer, and those are consistently the listings that generate the most "does it have..." messages instead of offers. More detail up front means fewer back-and-forth emails and fewer buyers who show up expecting something different from what you have.
Say what's wrong with the boat somewhere in the listing, even briefly. It doesn't cost you buyers — it costs you the ones who'd have walked away at the survey anyway, before either of you wasted a trip.
4. Vet buyers before you hand out your address
A real buyer will call or message with a specific question about the boat — engine hours, why you're selling, whether it's been surveyed. A scam contact usually skips straight to "I'll send a cashier's check for more than asking" or asks you to ship the boat before payment; a boat can't be shipped to a stranger sight-unseen the way a small item can, and any message built around that premise is not a real buyer. Take the conversation to a phone call before you agree to a showing, and don't give out your home address — meet at the marina or storage yard where the boat actually sits.
Never accept a check for more than the agreed price with instructions to wire back the difference, and never release the boat, title, or keys before funds have actually cleared your bank — not just "shown as pending." See our safety guide for the by-owner scam patterns we see reported most.
5. Sea trial safety: rules that protect both sides
Require proof of insurance or a signed liability waiver before anyone but you operates the boat, and stay aboard for the entire sea trial — you are the captain until the sale closes, whether or not the buyer is driving. Set the route and conditions in advance (calm water, daylight, familiar water you know the depths of) and make sure everyone aboard has a properly fitted life jacket, not just one within reach.
Treat the sea trial as separate from the survey and separate from the sale. A good sea trial tells the buyer how the boat runs; it isn't a substitute for a haul-out survey, and it isn't the moment to hand over keys or paperwork — that happens only after funds clear.
6. The survey — and what to do with what it finds
If the buyer is financing the purchase, their lender will almost always require a marine survey before approving the loan; even a cash buyer should get one on anything beyond a small skiff. A surveyor inspects the hull, structure, systems, and safety equipment and produces a written report — expect it to find something, even on a well-kept boat, since that's the point of the exercise.
Decide before the survey how you'll handle findings: some sellers agree to fix specific safety items, some adjust price instead, and some sell as-is and let the price already reflect it. Put whichever you choose in writing before the survey happens, not after, so a finding doesn't turn into a renegotiation from scratch.
7. Paperwork by scenario
What you sign depends on how the boat is titled, not on the fact that you're selling it yourself. The four scenarios that cover almost every by-owner sale:
- State-titled boat (most boats under ~26 ft, and many larger ones) — sign the title over to the buyer the same way you would a car, through your state's title-transfer process.
- USCG-documented vessel (common on larger boats and yachts) — ownership transfers via a Coast Guard Bill of Sale (CG-1340) and an updated Certificate of Documentation filed with the National Vessel Documentation Center, not a state title.
- Trailer — trailers are titled separately from the boat in most states; make sure the trailer's title transfers alongside the boat's, not left behind by accident.
- Outstanding loan or lien — the lienholder must be paid off and release the lien before (or at) closing; a boat can't legally change hands with an active lien the buyer doesn't know about.
Whatever the scenario, put the deal in writing with a signed purchase agreement and bill of sale that name both parties, the boat (HIN/hull number, year, make, model), the price, and the date. Our free purchase agreement and bill of sale covers all four cases.
8. Closing without a broker: how the money and title actually move
A broker's real job at closing is making sure money and title change hands at the exact same moment, so neither side is exposed. You can do the same thing yourself: meet at your bank, have the buyer bring certified funds (a cashier's check or verified wire — never a personal check for a meaningful amount), and don't sign over the title or hand over keys until the bank confirms the funds are actually in your account, not merely deposited.
Many banks will do this as a same-visit closing: buyer's funds go in, you sign the title and bill of sale in front of a notary if your state requires one, and the buyer walks out with the boat's paperwork the same day you walk out with confirmed funds. Hand over manuals, registration, and any warranty paperwork at the same time — it's one less loose end after the sale.
9. Common by-owner mistakes that kill a sale
The recurring ones: pricing off what you paid instead of current comps; posting three photos because "the good ones are somewhere else"; leaving out a known issue that surfaces at the survey and blows up the deal instead of being priced in from the start; agreeing to ship a boat before funds clear; and handing over a trailer's paperwork separately (or forgetting it) because it didn't occur to anyone that a trailer has its own title. Every one of those is avoidable by working through this guide's steps in order instead of skipping to "post it and see who calls."
10. Where to go from here
Post your boat free on YachtBazar — no listing fee, no broker, no commission on the sale. Sell my boat by owner → For the full step-by-step across buying and selling, see our complete boat-buying and -selling guide.
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Frequently asked questions
How much commission does a boat broker charge?
Most yacht brokers charge about 10% of the sale price. Selling by owner means you keep that money.
Where can I sell my boat by owner for free?
List free on YachtBazar — no listing fee and no commission. Buyers contact you directly.
Do I need a broker to sell a boat?
No. You can price, list, show and close the sale yourself; this guide and our free purchase agreement and bill of sale walk you through each step.
Do I need a marine survey to sell my boat by owner?
If the buyer is financing, their lender will almost always require one before approving the loan. Even a cash sale is safer with a survey on anything beyond a small skiff — it gives both sides a written record of the boat's condition at the time of sale.
How do I safely receive payment when selling a boat by owner?
Use certified funds — a cashier's check or verified wire, never a personal check for a meaningful amount — and don't sign over the title or hand over keys until your bank confirms the funds have actually cleared, not just that they've been deposited.
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